It can be hard to get your hands on **FADED**. Topicals is a small brand with in-demand products and limited stock; you may be waitlisted or need to pre-order (which isn’t ideal when you rely on a product for daily use). I think this will change in time, sooner rather than later given all the positive buzz surrounding Topicals’ debut products. 

Because there are no added fragrances, **FADED** smells pretty funky. Prior to its newer, less-stinky formulation, it had a sulfurous&#47;rotten-egg scent until dry-down. People who ordered the first “drop” weren’t exaggerating about the scent, it wasn’t pleasant. The reformulation&#47;current version doesn’t smell *good*, but it definitely doesn’t have that rotten egg smell anymore. It reminds me of (sorry in advance) raw chicken and seasoned salt. Probably not your grail if you want a pleasant olfactory experience with your skincare, but  **FADED** works on my spots so I’m willing to breathe through my mouth til dry-down.

Topicals **FADED** brightening + clearing gel may be my “Desert Island product”: I’m on my second tube and never want to be without this stuff again. It’s the only product to noticeably lighten my melasma and dark spots left by acne-rosacea without causing irrtation. 

Almost everyone deals with some sort of hyperpigmentation—caused by overproduction and irregular distribution of melanin—at some point in their lives. Skin’s melanocytes can be triggered to overproduce melanin for a variety of reasons, like sun exposure, breakouts&#47;pimples, cuts, hormonal fluctuations, or eczema and rashes. **FADED** gel is formulated to help *heal* scarred and sun-damaged skin by fading away even your most stubborn marks, scars, and spots—but *gentle* enough for people with hyperpigmentation and erythema (redness) who can’t tolerate more aggressive acids. Since it’s made by two women of color, I implicitly trust Topicals when they promise the formula *never bleaches*. 

The gentle-yet-effective magic of **FADED** is in the ingredients. Per Topicals, key ingredients are: 
1. *TRANEXAMIC ACID* : prevents melanocyte (pigment cell) activation, initiation of melanogenesis (process that creates excess pigment in dark spots), and additional vascular development (pathogenesis of melasma)
2. *AZELAIC ACID* : prevents tyrosine conversion to melanin; scavenges discoloration-causing free radicals in the skin resulting from environmental stress and sun damage
3. *NIACINAMIDE* : interrupts pigment transfer from melanocytes to the upper layers of the skin where discoloration is visible, scavenges free radicals and helps to reverse oxidative damage, anti-inflammatory, refines pores and excess oil
4. *KOJIC ACID* : inhibits melanocyte activation, mildly exfoliates skin 
5. *LICORICE ROOT* : boasts powerful antioxidant properties, anti-inflammatory, helps to break down deposits of excess pigment in the skin
6. *CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT* : anti-inflammatory, powerful antioxidant, helps to accelerate wound healing and collagen production
7. *MELATONIN* : interrupts communication between melanocytes and keratinocytes, limits melanocyte stimulation, scavenges free radicals

Other noteworthy ingredients include: ALLANTOIN (soothes, protects, and stinulates new tissue growth), ALPHA ARBUTIN (helps fade sun damage and scars left by breakouts), SQUALANE (hydrates, moisturizes, soothes, noncomedogenic), and TURMERIC ROOT (antiinflammatory, soothes, lightly exfoliates). 

**FADED** is fragrance-free, dye-free, vegan, and cruelty-free. You recieve 1.7fl oz&#47;50mL for $36 USD, which lasts me ~2 months with daily use. If you have melasma or other hyperpigmentation but your skin hasn’t been able to tolerate stronger acids, Topicals **FADED** is a must-try powerhouse (in fabulous retro packaging). **FADED** replaced a prescription product I’d used for years (Finacea&#47;azelaic acid—it’s an ingredient in **FADED** and my skin tolerates this formulation much better) from first use. It’s never caused a flare of eczema&#47;rosacea, and my skintone is the most even it’s been in years; I can’t recommend it enough.

EXPENSIVE: Rebirth serum is $58, which is cost-prohibitive for a lot of people. While I do believe the serum is worth rhe price—the formulation is excellent, the ingredients are vegan, the packaging is recyclable, and (most importantly) the product performs well for my skin despite chronic skin conditions. 

IN-DEMAND&#47;OUT-OF-STOCK: Rebirth is made by a small company in small batches, which are released as “drops”. If you don’t&#47;can’t place your order during  a drop, you wont be able to purchase until the next one...which may be months away.  Shipping is also limited to (IIRC) USA&#47;Canada .

**REBIRTH** is a unique resurfacing serum, made specifically for sensitive skin. I have eczema and rosacea (two chronic skin conditions that do not like exfoliants!) and other than tret, this is the first exfoliant I’ve ever been able to use consistently. The pH is 3.5 -4.0, which is on the “higher” (but still effective!) end for exfoliants. The key to success is, as always, “START LOW AND GO SLOW!” The directions say to use “a few drops” 2-3 nights&#47;week: try 1x&#47;weekly to start. I use a pea-sized amount (1-2 drips from the pipette) on skin that has been cleansed, toned, and allowed to dry down, then tap the product on gently and alow to dry before completing my nightly routine. I only use 1x&#47;weekly, and always 1)skip tret that night and 3)sleep in a hydrating face mask. Proud to say I have never had any irritation and my skin looks more even and glowy than ever! I thought i needed vitamin C (which my skin just diesnt seem to tolerate) to get this glow, so REBIRTH is definitely a top find of 2020 for me. AND its vegan!  The  magic is in the ingredients, seriosuly:
    The first ingredient is BIRCH JUICE, a common ingredient in K-beauty products due to its ability to provide more hydration to the skin than hyaluronic acid. Birch juice  (56% of Rebirth’s formulation) is full of “amino acids, enzymes, antioxidants and minerals that help your skin retain moisture and protect the skin barrier function,” per Charlotte Cho (founder of K-beauty site Soko Glam). In addition to birch juice, Rebirth is jam-packed with calming ingredients like CENTELLA ASIATICA, glycerin, oat extract, LICORICE ROOT, squalane, chamomile extract, and hyaluronic acid to **soothe and hydrate the skin**.  
    The second ingredient in the formulation is 10% NIACINAMIDE. Niacinamide “works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface [...] reduce the impact of environmental damage, and repair signs of past damage,”  per Paula Begoun (of Paula’s Choice, Beautypedia).
    The majority of Rebirth’s ingredients are hydrating, calming, and reparative. So what makes this a “resurfacing” serum?  A vegan formulation of 5% LACTIC ACID, an alpha hydroxy acid. Lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid  (found in many pooular serums and toners) because the molecules are larger, but it functions in a similar way: by gently lifting away dead surface skin cells  to reveal the newer, healthy skin beneath.  Lactic acid encourages skin to build more collagen , which lessens the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Its also —perhaps surprisingly—quite good at providing moisture to the skin.  Be sure to wear spf (always ;), but especially) while youre using Rebirth; lactic acid can make your skin extra  sensitive.
    If you want something effective but gentle in your fight against hyperpigmentation or fine lines, try **REBIRTH**, try it slowly, and I hope you enjoy it as much as i do!

It’s very perfumed! I purchased the Green Tea Serum when it first became available to me (~2 years ago?). I had seen it on so many skinstagram and beautube “Best Serums” lists and was surprised by the stronf, lingering scent. Very few reviewers mentioned the scent (while some called it “light and natural”) when it is clearly an added ingredient&#47;lot of ingredients. 

Fragrance in skincare isn’t necessarily a negative thing, but derms and estheticians often teach their patients with chronic skincare conditions (like eczema and rosacea) to avoid  products with added parfum. The reason? Fragrance additives in skincare often contain volatile, skin-irritating compounds undeclared on the product packaging, thus making it difficult to determine exactly which chemicals one has a sensitivity to if skin irritation develops. Ultimately, this product did not work for me (I  had to give this away to a friend after only a few uses as it mad my skin hot and blotchy), and i would only recommend it for people who have no sensitivity to parfum&#47;scent in skincare. There are a million unscented hydrators out there—which is the main purpose of this serum. And if you want something with the benefit of green tea, Benton Aloe + Propolis may be a better choice as it is unfragranced.

Hydrating; dries down fairly quickly (which may be appealing for multi-step routines); green tea polyphenols have well-reaearched antioxidant properties

Just wish it came in a larger container, but I have that complaint with all sunscreens.

I’m always wary of hyped products bc my skin (eczema and rosacea) is so sensitive, but I compulsively buy sunscreens looking for The Grail. After using daily for 2 weeks, I am still stunned: this is the most cosmetically elegant and cute sunscreen I’ve ever used. People with skin conditions are typically relegated to chalky, thick preparations in medicinal-looking packaging; The Bamboo Sun Essence, oth, feels like a hydrating emulsion, and disappears into my skin (ZERO white cast) when applied. It has no scent, drying alcohol, or sulfates (things my dermatolgist wants me to avoid), and it doesn’t make my skin itch or turn red or rashy. At less than half the price of my former HG, this is an easy switch to make!

Luxury packaging and inclusion of niche &#47;trendy ingredient has a price, and that price is $75 = 1.7oz 

Tiny gold spoon = tiny amount of cream. This is NOT one of those creams where “a little goes a long way!”, either. I double-dipped every night just to get enough for the skin around my eyes, nose, and mouth. Using as a face cream 2x&#47;day, I would need to repurchase every ~2 months. If i only needed to buy a cleanser, serum, and a moisturizer then maybe...but like many here,  i have 3 rxs to work onto my face, PLUS toners and serums and mists and creams to hydrate, moiturize , and protect it. The cost adds up and  $75 for one item is spendy. 

I’m not sure how much benefit i saw from the CBD oil vs the rest of the (good!) ingredients. I can’t say if it’s gimmicky or beneficial; there are too many confounding variables in my skincare routine. While the cream never caused a flare (and seemed to help with redness a bit, maybe?) that is a bar cleared by creams of equal quality at  a much lower price point.  ELF’s Fragrance-Free Holy Hydration Cream comes to mind as a similarly textured product. 

I first purchased Acid Mantle Repair Cream during a flare of ocular rosacea (my eyelids and the skin around my eyes was red, itching, cracking, and it hurt to blink or use water to “wash” my eyes). During that time, this cream stung like fire;  I would definitely avoid use around your eyes if you have a similar issue. 

Ultimately,  I really liked the cream —its nice to have a ~nice~ skincare product when chronic skincare conditions force you into a routine of mostly boring, clinical-looking prescription stuff. But the price is STEEP , and this is an item I’d repurchase with a giftcard or during a sale.

This cream is a deliciously thick and silky formulation with a slight herbaceous scent that never irritated my rosacea or eczema. Acid Mantle Repair Cream spreads easily and sinks in quickly: a blessing for anyone whose chronic skin conditions necessitate a multistep routine. It wore weightlessly and beautifully under both physical and chemical spf, as well as a variety of primers and makeup. I had expected Acid Mantle Repair to have some sort of heaviness about it, like the thick, protective creams meant for use only at night. I was pleasantly surprised to be wrong: this cream seemed to pat into and become part of my skin. I really enjoyed the formulation. 

This is a cosmetically elegant preparation comprised of trusty moisturizing and hydrating agents as well as  promising “new” ingredients to treat irritated skin. 
Per Lord Jones, “Each 1.7oz jar contains *250mg* of Whole Plant Formula  *full spectrum hemp-derived CBD oil* cultivated in the USA. Contains &lt;0.3% THC.”  According to Dr. Nima Gharavi, a dermatologist and  skin cancer surgeon at the Cedars-Sinai Cosmetic Dermatology Program, “CBD may play a role in hudraging the skin and have anti-inflammatory effects, so using a product that contains CBD might help with treating dry skin or certain inflammatory skin disorders.” In addition to CBD oil, Acid Mantle Repair Cream contains  a 5-ceramide complex and sunflower seed oil to moisturize and provide lipids to help the skin rebuild its acid mantle (the slightly acidic protective film of oils, amino acids, and sweat that covers healthy skin). Hyaluronic acid and squalane increase moisture , and a blend of ginger and elecampane flower “help boost protection from environmental pollutants”.

Finally, the reason my eye was drawn to the cream and its formulatiom in the first place: the undeniably stylish packaging. Lord Jones’s packaging lends the cream an alluring minimalist-glam aesthetic. From the hints of gold on the watercolor royal purple (recyclable) box, to the weight of the jar (its lid elegantly topped with the brand’s insignia), to the miniature golden spoon (included for aesthetic and hygienic purposes), Acid Mantle Repair Cream looks—and is—luxurious.

prettycalm