Back in the day, our moms used to introduce us to skincare. Nowadays, it's the other way around - younger people have better access to information, and they can influence their parents to make some changes. Today, I wanted to talk a little bit about adult skin. I mostly focus on younger skin in my posts, so today let's focus on mature skin and what to search for when you're trying to find skincare for your parents, family members or friends.

What's the main difference between young and mature skin?
- Although the scheme of skin layers is the same for every human, there are some changes. I won't focus today on how the skin is made, but I want to share some facts about mature skin that might be useful for you while selecting skincare for mature skin. 
- Mature skin is about 30% thinner than baby skin. Epidermis is getting thinner, there's also a decrease in adipose tissue (fat) that's located in the hypodermis.
- We can divide aging into three different groups: intrinsic skin aging - it's a process determined by our genes and changes inside the body like changes in hormones; extrinsic skin aging - which is caused by external factors like UV radiation; aging caused by facial expression
- We can spot differences in skin elasticity, skin is losing its volume. Wrinkles and fine lines are getting more visible. 
- Decrease in the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The quality of collagen and elastin is also decreasing. 
- The skin barrier gets weaker
- You can spot more visible changes in the pigmentation of your skin - especially on the face and hands. 

The main problems I spot with mature skin
I was lucky enough to mostly practice as an esthetician/cosmetologist on mature skin. So here are a few skin conditions I mostly had to deal with:
- adult acne - this type of acne might be related to hormones so it's good to visit a dermatologist, and endocrinologist first. 
- telangiectasias or spider veins - visible red veins, mostly around the nose. Depending on the level of advance you might need the help of an esthetician to remove the veins or proper skincare based on vitamin C, chestnut, arnica and similar ingredients
- age spots - visible pigmentation, products based on ingredients like vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinol, kojic acid or arbutin
- rosacea - we usually spot visible redness in this condition, arnica, chestnut, green tea, vitamin C, resveratrol and lactobionic acid might be helpful in this case.

What we should remember while selecting products?
While selecting products for mature skin, we should remember that every skin is different - it might be different to the same ingredients and that introducing new skincare products shouldn't be fast. Especially if you introduce your parents or grandparents - my mom is always annoyed with the amount of product I tell her to use just because something is new to her and she needs a slow start (for example with retinol, but that's good). 

What ingredients to look up to for mature skin?
- Ceramides & cholesterol - since mature skin has problems with the lipid barrier, adding these ingredients has a positive effect on protecting adult skin and making it healthier
- Squalane - this ingredient is similar to our sebum, similar to jojoba oil. You can massage your skin with this oil or just use it at the top of your evening skincare routine
- Red Ginseng - it is one of the most common hanbang (Traditional Korean Medicine) ingredients. It's rich in antioxidants and ginsenosides, it has anti-inflammatory properties.
- Retinal - yes, not retinol, but retinal. Why? It works great on wrinkles, and the retinal is more delicate to the skin even if it's more powerful.
- Collagen & Hyaluronic Acid - although I would say that you should eat food rich in collagen and use hyaluronic acid only if your skin likes it. Collagen has huge molecules so it works more like a film on the surface of the skin, while hyaluronic acid - it's a personal preference if you enjoy using this ingredient or not.
- Antioxidants - such as vitamin C, ectoin, coenzyme q10, glutathione, vitamin E, resveratrol, niacinamide, superoxide dismutase and more. Antioxidants help the skin fight free radicals.

Korean skincare for mature skin
Here are some products for mature skin that my mom and I tried and I would recommend them.
- S.Nature Squalane Moisturizing Cream
- Atopalm MLE Cream
- Dr G. Red Blemish Clear Soothing Cream
- AHC Eye Creams
- Primera Youth Radiance Vitanol Serum
- Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream Classic Ex & Serum Ex
- SU: M37 Secret Essence Advanced Sync Program
- Sooryehan The Black Serum

And what does your skincare routine look like? What are the main struggles with your skin?

Ps. I almost forgot - no matter if you're teenager or adult, sunscreen is really helpful to protect skin from negative effects of UV radiation on the skin.

Introducing parents to skincare? Few tips on mature skin and skincare-related gift ideas for parents

Have you ever wondered how different is Korean hair care routine then your routine? Or maybe you wonder which Kbeauty hair care product is worth a try?

Let me introduce myself first. Hi, I'm Mina, and I'm a licensed cosmetologist from Poland. I'm happy to become Picky Expert and share with you my knowledge. Since my bachelor's degree thesis and my work are related to haircare, I thought it would be best to start with some hair care questions.

Is there something like a Kbeauty routine for hair care? Yes and no! There are topics about 10-step hair care kbeauty routines on Western websites. The Korean beauty industry has many great and innovative solutions to treat your hair, but you would be surprised that there are no 10-steps hair rituals. So what are the most interesting kbeauty products you can add to your hair care routine?

SCALP SCALERS
You can name them scalp scrubs and scalp peelings. These products are amazing if you deal with oily scalp or hair loss since they remove dead skin cells, boost blood circulation and reduce sebum production. Depending on your needs, using scalp scalers once a week or once a month can be positive for your hair and scalp condition. 

HAIR/SCALP AMPOULES
Hair or scalp ampoules are a great choice for people dealing with hair loss or oily scalp. These products are well-concentrated and full of nourishing ingredients. 

NO WASH TREATMENTS & SERUMS
No wash treatments and serums don't have to be too rich for your hair. These products are usually mist-like delicate, and less oily than hair oils. Products like mise en scene hair serums are not only making your hair smooth visually, but they do add scent to the product

HAIR CUSHIONS, MASCARAS, SHADOWS
And other products to reduce the visibility of hair lines, undyed roots or products that enhance your hair colour. Korean brands like mise en scene, Etude or The Face Shop can really revolutionize your hair care routine before important events.

Do you have a favourite Korean hair product? Or do you have any questions related to your hair care routine? Feel free to ask.

All you want to know about the Korean hair care routine

Do you have a favourite cream with ceramides? My mom is a fan of cosrx ceramide cream, I enjoyed other ceramide creams too and today I thought about introducing to you ceramides as well as some of my ceramide picks.

I like to think about ceramides like a concreate and about skin like it's a wall. Ceramides can be found in outer layer of the skin aka stratum corneum or epidermis. They make sure that your skin stays strong and neither water can go out from the skin, nor bad stuff can come under the skin. In many times, if out skin gets super dry and irritated it might mean that we lack ceramides, cholesterol or fatty acids.

Do you have favourite ceramide products?

ceramides in moisturizers

There's one thing we can be sure of - autumn is coming! PSL is back, Halloween decorations are back in stores, and the weather is getting chilly. Should your beauty routine change during autumn? Yes! Here are a few tips you might need this season

During the autumn, the temperature goes down, and we can expect rainy and even snowy weather. The UV index is going down, the days get shorter, and our skin reacts to outer factors differently. 

Treatments - what's in and what's out
I guess we barely talk about treatments since nowadays skincare and even beauty tools are so affordable and available. There's one thing I learned during physiotherapy lectures at university - the devices we use at home are made the way to be safe for users, so the users don't need any knowledge of technology and how it works. Devices are usually safe to use at home, but before you use them - make sure to read the instructions. The devices used by estheticians, trichologists or dermatologists need professional knowledge or even special training. They have better effects than home devices, but it doesn't mean that home devices are useless. 

So what's in if it comes to beauty treatments? 
There are a few treatments that shouldn't be done during summer like microdermabrasion. It's a treatment that helps reduce pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles by removing the outer layers of the skin. Instead of microdermabrasion, you can use stronger acid peels. If you deal with ice pick, rolling or boxcar scars then microneedling is a good treatment to do during autumn. There's no treatment you should avoid during autumn, but if there's a treatment that involves temperature change - wait before you go out, since the sudden change of temperature is not the best for your health. 

If it comes to home devices, there are a few technologies I enjoy using and I found them on the Korean market as well. You probably know Medicube already, this brand is trending in the Western market when it comes to beauty tools. The device I would recommend from this brand if you want to focus on anti-aging is Medicube AGE-R Derma EMS Shot. EMS technology is like a gym for our facial and body muscles. Like many devices, Medicube AGE-R Derma EMS Shot needs a product to work properly. Age-R Booster Gel Serum was created especially for Medicube devices to provide effects and proper work of the technology. What's important for me as an esthetician is how the brand informs customers to make sure they can use the device since EMS technology shouldn't be used by people with pacemakers or after some beauty treatments. 

I'm not a fan of using LED products with no eye protection, but there are two Korean products I can recommend. Deesse AC Spot Healer is an LED device. Blue light in LED therapy works great on acne, and the Deesse AC Spot Healer is easy to use - you stick it right on the pimple and use it. I got it because you can combine it with Dr Ceuracle AC Cure Solutions - Blue and Green. I'm aware that lots of LED masks are trending, but there's one I wish we could get in Europe and it was created by a company you should know well. The majority of my friends think of LG as this brand that creates washing machines, but the LG Household & Health Care subsidiary stands behind some of your favourite beauty brands like belif, The Face Shop, Dr Belmeur, Dr Groot, Sooryehan and less popular brands like Yehwadam or The Saga Of Xiu. LG Pra.L Derma LED Mask is a product with one thing I wish other brands would focus on - eye protection! 

Heating and skin moisture 
Does heating or air con have anything in common with your skin? Yes! Lots of people feel like their skin during the autumn and winter time is getting dry, but they didn't change anything in their routine. Usually, the problem is in the heating system, and the solution is easy - change your moisturizer and add more hydrating products to your routine. Etude  SoonJung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream is an affordable moisturizer based on Panthenol and Madecassoside. Skin1004 is a brand loved by many beauty lovers all around the world. One of the latest additions to the brand's portfolio is Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Enrich Cream. This cream mixes probiotics, Centella, Ceramides and Squalane. A good moisturizer is key, during autumn and winter, you can choose rich formulas. 

How does acne skin react to weather?
Do you know that during summer our skin produces more sebum? That's true, but it doesn't mean that we won't break out during winter. So it's good to have some acne treatments prepared just in case. I always stick to calamine formulas during winter like Mizon Acne Blemish Out Pink Spot and pimple patches. I stick to COSRX pimple patches but nowadays the choice is huge. Acropass Trouble Cure is like acne patches but better. These patches have microcones. They are great but just don't touch the cones before applying these patches to the clean skin. 

What about body care?
If you tend to have problems with your legs such as ingrown hair or strawberry legs then I got a bad news for you. During winter your skin condition might get worse, but there are ways to deal with such a problem. Before removing hair from your skin remember to do a peeling. I prefer enzyme and acid peels over scrubs, but sometimes even scrubs are useful. If you want to try some Korean bodycare then Plu body scrub pink floral might be an interesting Kbeauty journey for you. If you search for solutions with enzymes, search for products with papain and bromelain like Real Barrier Clear Peeling Gel. 

Remember to use body moisturizer - you can use it right after taking a shower. Illiyoon Fresh Moisture Lotion is a good, hydrating body lotion with vitamin C. You might be a bit scared about why it contains alcohol, but this ingredient in skincare promotes the transport of active substances to deeper layers of the skin. 

Hair during autumn
During autumn you might deal with seasonal hair loss. If you're worried about hair loss remember to keep a good diet - focus on vitamins and minerals but also omega fatty acids. A healthy and balanced diet based on seasonal fruits and vegetables is positive for your entire body. Regular scalp scrubs help with blood circulation and hair growth. One of my favourite Korean scalp scrubs is growus Sea Salt Therapy Scalp Scaler.

Autumn themed products
What I love about autumn are pumpkin-themed products. Lots of brands follow the pumpkin trend because this vegetable is a source of vitamins and minerals and pumpkin enzymes are positive for the skin. You probably know Too Cool For School Pumpkin Sleeping Pack, This mask is an affordable overnight dupe to wash off masks popular in the Western market. 

For many people Banila Co Cleansing Balms are the first cleansing balms they tried, but do you know that this brand has a pumpkin version of its popular cleansing balm? Banila Co Clean it Zero Vita Pumpkin is as good as other products from the Clean it Zero line. 

Autumn doesn't need a big change if it comes to beauty routines, but since days are getting colder and nights are getting longer it's good to spend a bit of time on self-care, no matter if it's just a cup of cocoa, a good book or a long bath with sheet mask on.

Do you have any questions related to skincare routine? Feel free to ask

Autumn skincare routine

Have you heard about the newest controversy on Avene SPF? Caroline Hirons made an Instastory on how Avene in the US (and probably UK) promoted their sunscreen as mineral oil free, octocrylene and oxybenzone free.

Avene is a French brand which in some countries we call cosmeceutical/dermocosmetic brand.

Are these ingredients bad? No, but marketing team of Avene in the US went a little bit into clean beauty I guess. Oxybenzone is a sunscreen agent that covers UVB and UVA rays (not all UVA, just a small spectrum from entire UVA spectrum). This ingredient usually helps to stabilise other sunscreens. Octocrylene protects from UVB and UVA II, it also stabilise other sunscreen substances and improved water resistance of cosmetics. Mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum is an emollient, the controversy around this ingredient is because its a refined petroleum. Should you be scared of it? No, since mineral oil and petroleum are two different substances but just like some surfactants are derived from coconut oil, some substances are derived from petroleum or other substances. Also, all chemical ingredients need to fit some requirements to be used in products.

What's the controversy about? While US Avene promotes their products as mineral oil, octocrylene and oxybenzone free - they sell products with such ingredients in Europe.

I wonder if you heard about it and what do you think about this case. Do you use Avene? Will you still support this brand after such an oopsie?

Have you heard about latest controversy on Avene aka #avenegate related to sunscreen

Be Mused Korea 15%off with code KHE15

Stylevana

I love this cream. I always use AHC Eye Creams but this Season is the best AHC eye cream at the moment. It contains peptides, and you can easily see that - it works well on eyes. My eyes are sensitive, I use lenses and I never had an issue with it. It makes my skin moist and soft. I feel like it saves my skin in place and slows down the aging process.

It's a liquid solution with a strong scent. It kinda reminds me of a scent my grandma used which for me is way too strong, but I believe some people might love it.   

GrowUs is a professional cosmeceutical hair care brand from Korea. The brand is focused on protecting the marine ecosystem. Every packaging is created of PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled) material and the brand itself wants to focus on sustainability and lower carbon emission. growus Damage Therapy No Wash Treatment comes in a pink marble-like box. Inside you can find a transparent bottle with a white spray tip. It has a special blockade so the product won't open on its own. I love how at first when you see this bottle, you think it's pink water with some weird white stuff on the bottom - shake it, and you'll see a pink pearly texture with an amazing spark! growus Damage Therapy No Wash Treatment contains Protein Complex (including collagen and ceramide NP) and Marine Pearl Complex (including pearl extract and pink salt). This product is recommended for damaged hair, hair after bleaching, perm and dyeing or frizzy hair. This pearly textured spray is a big surprise for me since it does its job perfectly - it makes brushing easier, and it can be an additional treatment to hydrate your hair and protect it. I wouldn't use it as a protection from heat, but as a good addition to my routine, especially if your hair is frizzy or hard to brush. I believe if you have curly or wavy hair, this product might make the curls look better since it contains sea salt and seawater.   

I tried this serum in 2016 and came back to it in 2021. I tested two bottles of it. Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop is a 15% Vitamin C solution. 15% (in total) of Ascorbic Acid + SAP is an interesting composition. I have to admit that for many of my friends Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop is a must-have Vitamin C. Not every solution is as stable in white glass as Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop. Even if you are supposed to use this serum in 6 months after opening it. So far I'm almost ending the bottle and it didn't change colour at all. The texture is bit oily, 3-4 drops of this solution is enough for entire face. It has a nice freshly scent, once you apply it, it gives a warm feeling on the skin - use toner to make this feeling less annoying, personally I find it very relaxing. The results after just a month are great - works on PIE perfectly. 

- The tint is hard to work with. You have to make sure it's well-applied other way it'll be visible
- UVA protection could be better, it's about PA 17 which is great, but I was expecting something more
- It has alcohol + citrus scent thanks to limonene
- It makes me cry - because of the alcohol my eyes can't stand it in near-eye area
- It's hard to apply, it doesn't work well with makeup

I received this product for free from Picky and SOME BY MI in exchange for my honest review. 
Honestly, maybe tint is a good thing but not really. It has an awesome texture - it's liquid like ampoule. 

It has some scent and parfum as an ingredient. My skin has mixed feelings towards products with a pH around 6 - it prefers cleansers and toners with a pH around 5,5 or even acid products with lower pH (acids need right pH to work). The effects are not surprising. The toner itself is nice, but it&#39;s not a revolutionary product. It won&#39;t surpass my favourite toners like Klairs or Aqulabo, but I think that there might be people who will enjoy it.

Note: this product was gifted by Picky &amp; Gentle Hour, the review shows my opinion on product.

The bottle of Gentle Hour Dew It Again Toner comes in a paper box. You have to tear it to get to the turquoise bottle. I enjoy the colour of the product. The brand keeps minimalistic, pastel tones in the entire aesthetic.

I can&#39;t tell what this scent reminds me of, but it does have a scent. Sadly, even in ingredients, you can find &quot;parfum&quot; part. The scent is not annoying for me, but every nose is different - just like the skin. The texture is liquid, a bit oily and rich. It feels hydrating, but it won&#39;t make your skin oily.

According to Gentle Hour, Dew It Again Toner has a balanced pH around 5.3 and 6.3 which I&#39;m not a fan of since my skin prefers a lower pH. It&#39;s free from alcohol, it&#39;s based on natural extracts. According to Picky, this product is free from fragrance, sulfates and can be safely used during pregnancy. I would argue with the fragrance part since you can see that scent ingredients are listed as a fragrance in Gentle Hour Dew It Again Toner. Just to mention all lists of ingredients comes from the Gentle Hour official website. The packaging gives me a trendy vibe, it feels like the brand wants to get to a young audience - Gen Z &amp; Millenials (although I hate using both these terms) due to the pastel packaging. It is recommended to use this toner with a cotton pad. Normally, I use toners without cotton pads but this time I&#39;ve decided to do it differently and follow the instruction. I do not imagine applying this toner without a cotton pad, since it&#39;s quite liquid and it feels a bit oily. The toner needs about a minute to be absorbed by the skin, it might leave a bit oily residue, but I followed this toner with Hyaluronic Acid serum, moisturizer, sunscreen and I normally put my cushion - it didn&#39;t roll any of the products. I was a bit worried since my skin has mixed reactions to Niacinamide. I expected to see redness in a short amount of time, I got this product on July 8th, and normally I would test it for over 30 days, but since I got a deadline, I tested this toner for almost 2 weeks (10 days) before writing this review. I do not see any redness, but as you can see in the photos, my skin has mixed feelings towards products with a pH around 6 - it prefers cleansers and toners with a pH around 5,5 or even acid products with lower pH (acids need right pH to work). The effects are not surprising. The toner itself is nice, but it&#39;s not a revolutionary product. It won&#39;t surpass my favourite toners like Klairs or Aqulabo, but I think that there might be people who will enjoy it.

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